Unplug the machine from its power source when removing the Maytag agitator. Tape the washer lid to the top panel to prevent the lid from slamming open. Press the clips using a putty knife, and lift the front of the top panel. Lift the top panel to the bits service position, and swing the locking tabs out. Lift the container top and the dispenser away from the top. If the dispenser remains intact, insert a flathead screwdriver between the agitator and dispenser, and turn the blade of the screwdriver.
Separate the dispenser from the washer, and put it aside. Remove the center bolt of the agitator using an adapter and a socket wrench.
Lift the agitator from the base, and remove it from the machine. After removing the agitator, the bottom of the Maytag tub is ready to clean.
This machine was originally designed by Norge, who was later bought by Maycor (Maytag.) In the latest incarnation, Maycor is putting out their version of the old Norge design as 'Performa' model Maytag machines, as well as Magic Chef, Admiral and Crosley brands. Maytag 'Atlantis' machines are basically souped-up Performas, with more solid-state controls and digital gadgetry. Note that Signature (Montgomery Ward) machines were, at various times over the last 20 years or so, built to either a Norge or Frigidaire design. Please look at both this chapter and chapter 10, Frigidaire, and figure out what kind of washing machine you have before you try to diagnose it! 7a-1 BASIC OPERATION (Figure N-1) Performa washing machines use a direct reversing drive motor to change from agitate to the spin cycle.
Single, two- and three-speed motors were used in various models. Power is transmitted to the pump and transmission by a single belt. The motor is mounted on plastic mounts that slide in tracks in the baseplate of the machine. A large spring pushes the motor in its sliding tracks to keep tension on the belt. During the spin cycle, the whole transmission casing spins around; a clutch built into the transmission allows the transmission to accelerate slowly, allowing for a 'pre-pump' action.
During the agitate cycle, a brake keeps the transmission from spinning, and the gears inside the transmission operate the agitator. Before 1990, these machines used a solenoid-operated brake band around the base of the transmission housing to stop the transmission from spinning. In more recent models, a cam in the transmission pulley hub allows the brake to engage when the motor is turning in the 'agitate' direction, but releases it when the motor turns in the 'spin' direction. For the purposes of this book, these washing machines will be referred to as pre-1990 or post-1990 machines, identifiable by the presence or absence of a brake band at the bottom of the transmission housing.
(Figure N-1a). In pre-1990 models, the machine does not start spinning until the tub is partially pumped out. This is accomplished in one of two ways. In most machines, the timer holds the brake for a minute and a half or so at the beginning of the spin cycle while the pump starts draining the tub.
In just a few models, a 'dashpot' was used. It looks like a diaphragm switch mounted piggyback to the brake solenoid. It is simply a pressure switch that senses water level in the tub, and releases the brake at the appropriate water level. Replace if defective. In a few very old pre-1990 machines, there is a solenoid-activated clutch that works in conjunction with the brake. (I don't know if there are still any operating out there; frankly, I've never seen any.). 7a-3 WHAT TYPICALLY GOES WRONG WITH THESE WASHING MACHINES Well, we have good news and bad news here.
The good news is that Norge design machines are pretty tough and seem to last at least a good 8 to 10 years. The bad news is that transmission, tub seal or upper (spin) bearing repairs are extremely difficult and expensive and require many special tools, and thus usually render the machine not economically worth repairing. Here are the most common problems with these machines: SYMPTOM: LEAKS Leaking pumps are the single most common problem with this machine, and they are easy to replace. See section 7a-4.
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See also TUB SEAL LEAKS below. SYMPTOM: NO DRAIN If the machine is not draining, there may not be enough belt tension on the pump belt; check for a broken belt or tensioning spring. The belt is subject to normal wear as described in Chapter 2, section 2-5(a). If you have belt wear problems, also check the motor tracks and belt-tensioning spring as described in section 7a-5. The motor tracks may be mucked up or corroded, preventing the motor from 'floating' in its track enough to tension the belt.
SYMPTOM: NO AGITATION, NO SPIN, OR SLOW SPIN This may be caused by a number of different problems. The first thing to determine is whether or not the motor is turning, and the belt is turning the transmission. If not, you may have belt problems, timer or motor problems, or speed selector switch or lid switch problems as described in Chapter 2.
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If the motor is turning, you may have brake bearing or spin bearing problems; see sections 7a-6 and 7a-7. SYMPTOM: NOISES AND TUB SEAL LEAKS A squeak during braking in post-1990 models can be solved by sanding the rotor drum surface lightly with emery cloth, but it is not an easy job. The brake spring is heavily pre-loaded and requires some special tools to remove and install safely.
See section 7a-6. A rattling noise can indicate a worn flexible rubber bushing in the motor drive pulley hub. See section 7a-6. A rumbling sound is usually an upper (spin) bearing problem. This may also come across as a sound like a jet engine or a Ferrari taking off as the machine accelerates into the spin cycle (an accelerating whe-e-e-e-e sound). This is often accompanied by water leaking from the tub seal above the transmission; look around the inside walls of the cabinet for signs of water slinging off the transmission during the spin cycle. See section 7a7.
In pre-1990 models, a rumbling or growling sound can also indicate bad bearings in the transmission drive pulley assembly. See section 7a-6. SYMPTOM: VIBRATION Vibration in these machines usually occurs because of bleach leaks. There is a bleach dispensing cup molded into the top of the tub ring. Bleach spits out of this cup, and drips down around the baseplate of the washer.
The baseplate and cabinet quickly rust, and the baseplate suspension spring mounts or even the suspension springs themselves may crack or break. If a suspension spring on one side is broken or disabled, the washer will vibrate badly. You can try to replace a broken suspension spring (if you must replace one, you must replace the whole set).
However, it can be very difficult, and it requires expensive special tools. Normally there is no repair for this problem. If the baseplate of the washer is badly corroded, you will probably end up scrapping the washer soon. SYMPTOM: BRAKE AND BRAKE SOLENOID In pre-1990 models, if the basket tries to spin with the tub full of water, the brake is not engaging. You will find the brake assembly mounted to the plate near the bottom of the transmission (Figure N-1a). Check the brake solenoid and dashpot (if installed) Also check the linkage and the brake band.
Test the solenoid as described in section 2-6(a). Replace if defective. Though the brake solenoid is relatively easy to replace, the brake band is extremely difficult, requiring special tools. If the lining or band needs service, or if the brake is squealing, call a qualified service technician or junk the washer. 7a-6 MOTOR PULLEY AND TRANSMISSION PULLEY Some of these machines used a motor pulley with a flexible rubber hub which tends to disintegrate after a few years. If the pulley literally flops around on its hub with the belt tension removed from it, that's what's happened.
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Replacements are available; to remove the pulley, remove the setscrew as shown in figure N-4. Some late model machines have a nylon/fiberglass motor pulley that is pressed onto a splined motor shaft. It can be replaced if damaged, but it requires a puller to get it off. Reinstalling it, tap it onto the motor shaft with a 1/2 inch socket until it bottoms on the shoulder on the motor shaft. To prevent motor bearing damage when you tap it on, make sure you remove the plastic shaft cover on the other end of the motor and back up the shaft against something solid. (Like a wall or workbench.) In pre-1990 models, the transmission drive pulley and its bearing are located in the center of the baseplate. The bearing within the plate can get rusted or worn, causing noise and excessive belt wear.
Kenmore Elite Washer Agitator Removal
They are difficult to replace. If this happens, call a qualified service technician. The transmission drive pulley in post-1990 machines is made of a plastic material. The bearing assembly is pictured in figure N-5.
When disassembling this assembly, count the pieces beneath the pulley; there should be six. When this bearing gets severely worn, the lower washer will embed itself into the plastic pulley, and you may only count five pieces. There may be powdered plastic or metal residue or pieces of the pulley on the other bearing assembly parts. The symptom will be that the basket is not spinning; the reason is that due to the wear in this bearing, the brake is not lifting enough to release and allow the transmission to spin. A kit is available to replace the pulley and bearing assembly. You may need to adjust the brake release. After you replace the bearing assembly, turn the pulley CCW until the brake releases.
Look at the reference marks on the lower cam; each mark is worth about.010 of adjustment. The brake should release when the drive pulley hub shoulder is between 3 and 9 marks on the lower cam. Less than 3, and you need to replace the.062 thrust washer with a.032 thrust washer. If the brake releases at more than 9 marks, install both the.032 thrust washer and the.062 washer.
Brake squeaking can usually be quieted by removing the brake housing and lightly sanding the metal rotor drum surface with emery cloth to break the glaze. However, the brake spring is loaded to 200 pounds and requires a special tool (number 35-2442) to remove. Your parts distributor may have one in stock, but for most distributors it is usually a special order. 7a-7 TRANSMISSION If you have upper or lower spin bearing or tub seal leakage problems, you will probably end up junking the washer. The transmission is a real son-of-a-gun to remove. First, it takes about $200 worth of special tools, in addition to the parts cost. And speaking of parts costs, the upper bearing surface is the transmission casing itself, and usually the whole transmission must be replaced due to rust and wear.
The suspension springs are heavily loaded and difficult and dangerous to remove. The set screw in the drive block is usually corroded so badly that it cannot be removed. If you have symptoms that indicate a transmission problem on your washing machine, you might try calling a qualified service technician. However, be forewarned: if you can find a technician who's willing to do the job, it will probably cost you 350 dollars or more.
Unless you're emotionally attached to the washer, it's usually not worth it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but in my experience, you will usually end up getting rid of the washing machine.
7-1 BASIC OPERATION The design uses a reversing motor, which is belted to both the pump and the transmission, using two different belts. At times, both one-speed and two-speed motors were used. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle.
Maytag Centennial Washer Agitator Removal
(Figure M-1) To switch between the two cycles, there is a brake in the hub of the drive pulley, and a clutch in the transmission. During agitation, the brake keeps the transmission casing from turning, and the drive pulley turns the transmission shaft. During the spin cycle, the brake releases and the whole transmission starts slowly spinning around. Since the basket is attached to the transmission casing, it spins, too.
A clutch built into the transmission allows slippage until the basket gets up to speed. At the end of the spin cycle, the motor stops and the brake brings the basket to a stop. In the late '80's, Maytag redesigned the transmission. The result is the 'orbital' transmission, which has just a few moving parts and is serviceable in the machine.
One is supposed to be able to replace the other directly. However, the gearing in the orbital is higher (the agitator agitates faster) so I would not replace one with the other unless absolutely unavoidable; for example, if the parts were unavailable. The motor is mounted on rollers which ride in a metal track. Springs attached to the motor mounting plate keep tension on the belts. The pump reverses with the motor, but there is no recirculation.
When the washer is agitating, the pump is just sitting there spinning; it is not moving any water. 7-2 OPENING THE CABINET AND CONSOLE To access the belts, lean the machine against the wall and look underneath. Follow the safety precautions described in section 1-4(2). To open the front of the cabinet, remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel.
(Figure M-2.) Raise the panel fairly high and the top clips will disengage from the cabinet top. To raise the cabinet top, remove the two screws on the underside of the front corners. Two types of consoles were used in different machines. To open the console, see figure M-2. 7-3 WHAT TYPICALLY GOES WRONG WITH THESE WASHING MACHINES The lid switch plunger is located in the center rear of the lid. With the lid up, NOTHING on these machines works. In order to diagnose these machines, you need to keep the lid up far enough to look inside, without tripping the lid switch.
You can do this by inserting a putty knife between the lid and the switch, and then propping up the lid with something (I use my electrical pliers to prop up the lid.) The most common ailments in a Maytag washer are leaks, worn belts, and broken timers. SYMPTOM: WATER LEAKS Besides the usual leaky fill solenoid valves, bleach dispensers and such (section 2-4) there are many places that a Maytag washing machine commonly leaks. 1) In the fill line, between the fill solenoid valve and the tub fill nozzle, there is a fill injector which prevents any accidental siphoning of wash water back into your house's fresh water system.
(Figure M-3.) This fill injector can get clogged with calcium or other deposits, causing it to back up and leak. It is easily replaced. It is located beneath the cabinet top, on the left side. 2) If you have a large leak from inside the right rear of the machine, it is probably coming from the drain hose anti-siphon valve. (See figure G-7 in chapter 2.) This is the valve in the washer drain line, right where it penetrates the rear of the cabinet.
This valve is easily replaced. NOTE: Not all Maytag washing machine models were equipped with this valve. 3) The tub seal will leak from the center of the tub, directly onto the top of the transmission. A tub stem & seal kit is available from your appliance parts dealer. See section 7-12. 4) Sometimes, tub hoses or fittings will leak. There are soft lead washers that seal the tub braces, where the bolts enter the tub.
You must remove the basket to replace these lead washers; see section 7-12. 5) The pump can leak; see section 7-4. SYMPTOM: BASKET SPINS, BUT WATER DOESN'T PUMP OUT Check for a broken or worn pump belt. Replace as described in section 7-10. With the machine in 'spin,' look at the pump pulley beneath the machine with a mirror.
If it is spinning, but water is not pumping, check for a clog in the hose between the tub and pump. If there is no jam, replace the pump as described in section 7-4. Allaire studio woodstock. If the pump is not turning, see section 7-4. SYMPTOM: WASHER FILLS, BUT DOESN'T AGITATE AND/OR SPIN 1) Check the imbalance/lid switch (Section 7-6) for continuity. Check also the speed selector switch (if any), the water level and water temperature switches for proper operation as described in section 2-6. NOTE: If any of the selector switches on the console are only partially pushed in, it may cause improper function. 2) Check for a broken or badly worn belt.
(Section 7-10) 3) Check the motor rollers and tension springs for damage and the motor roller tracks for jamming. (Section 7-10) Any of these might cause the belt to be loose. 4) Check the appropriate timer circuits for continuity. (See section 2-6(c). 5) Remove the belts and see if the motor will start.
If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8. If it does start with the load removed, turn the pump and transmission pulleys by hand, in both directions, to see which is locked up. If the pump is locked, see section 7-4.
If the transmission pulley is locked, see section 7-9. Note that the transmission pulley will normally be very stiff when turning it in the clockwise direction, as you look at the bottom of the washer. 6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines as described in section 7-11.
If they are not the problem, the transmission needs to be replaced; see section 7-9. SYMPTOM: BASKET SPINS (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) WHILE AGITATING Replace the brake package as described in section 7-13. SYMPTOM: NOISY OPERATION OR EXCESSIVE VIBRATION If both motor springs break, the motor shaft will touch the baseplate of the machine, causing an enormous racket.
(See section 7-10.) If the machine squeaks or vibrates too much in spin (and redistributing the clothes doesn't seem to help) check the damper pads as described in section 7-14. If you are getting a short screeching noise during braking (at the very end of the spin cycle,) the brake needs to be lubricated. See section 7-13. 7-4 PUMP AND PUMP BELT Remove the pump belt and check to see if the pump will turn freely by hand.
If not, check for a jam as described in section 2-3. Probe around the inside of the hoses or pump with needlenose pliers.
If the pump won't turn easily, and you can't find anything jamming it, replace the pump. The bearings are bad. If the pump turns freely by hand, but the belt doesn't drive it, see section 7-10.
Belt adjustment on a Maytag washer is relatively loose. Pinch the pump belt together with your fingers at the center. If you have more than a 1/4″ gap, the belt is too tight.
(Figure M-4.) Loosen the pump mounts to adjust. 7-7 TIMER The motor in Maytag timers can be removed and replaced separately from the timer body itself. If the timer is not advancing properly, you can try replacing just the motor. To access the timer for testing, remove the console panel as described in section 7-2. To remove the timer, pry the cap off the knob (Figure M-7.) Using a pair of needlenose pliers, remove the spring clip that holds the timer knob in place. Remove the knob, spring and dial. Beneath the dial are the two timer mounting screws.
To remove the timer motor from the timer body, simply remove the two motor mounting screws and the two motor terminals. 7-8 DRIVE MOTOR AND STARTING SWITCH Some machines may have external capacitors.
Test as described in section 2-6(e). Maytag washing machine motors have a piggyback centrifugal starting switch. Compared to other brands, they are very complex motors.
They are not only direct-reversing, but some are multi-speed, too. Unfortunately, just about every model had the starting switch wired differently.
To make matters worse, the motor wire colors do not always correspond with the colors marked on the switch. Whenever removing the motor or switch from the machine, mark which wires came off which of the switch terminals. Draw a picture if you must.
Make sure you differentiate in your notes between a motor wire and a wiring harness wire of the same color, and where each goes on the switch. If the drive motor does not start, try replacing the starting switch as described in section 2-6(e). Make sure you get the right switch for your machine. If the motor STILL doesn't start, replace it. To remove the motor, first remove power from the machine. Remove the plastic water shield from the motor, and mark and remove the wires. Remove the drive belts.
Remove the motor pulley from the motor shaft. Remove the four motor baseplate screws and lift the motor and baseplate out of the machine. Installation is the opposite of removal. Sometimes a replacement motor is wired differently than the original. Make sure you check the box that the new motor comes in for a wiring diagram. If one of these springs breaks, there may not be enough belt tension to drive the transmission and/or pump. If both break, there will be NO tension on the belts and in addition, the motor shaft will probably be hitting the washer baseplate, causing a heck of a racket.
The roller tracks can get clogged up with dirt, soap deposits or other obstructions. If so, clean out the tracks so the motor rolls freely. Lubricate the rollers and tracks with a little wheel bearing grease. Examine the condition of each belt as described in section 2-5(a).
Always replace BOTH belts if one is bad. Never replace just one belt. To replace, simply push the motor towards the transmission pulley and slip the belts off. Only the pump belt needs to have the proper tension set. Pump belt tension is explained in section 7-4. 7-11 AGITATOR Most Maytag washers have an agitator that lifts directly out.
These models have a rubber stop ring around the agitator shaft at the bottom of the splines. The agitator feels like it 'snaps' onto the shaft. A few models had a set screw that must be loosened before removing the agitator. If the washer is not agitating, remove the agitator.
Look at the splines and the agitator shaft. If the shaft is agitating, and the plastic splines in the agitator look stripped, replace the agitator. When replacing the agitator, be sure you push it down until you feel it snap over the rubber stop ring at the bottom of the agitator splines. Lift out the basket.
If you need to replace a leaking bleach deflector nozzle, (Figure M-10) pull the tab off the outside of the nozzle and snap it out of the tub. To replace, make sure the nozzle spits out bleach in a counterclockwise direction.
(Figure M-10) There are soft lead washers that seal the tub mounting bolts where the damper struts mount to the tub.)(Figure M-10) If they are leaking, replace them by removing the tub mounting bolts one at a time. Make sure you put the soft lead washer between the tub and the strut. The square washer, lock washer and nut go on the outside of the strut. When you tighten, make sure you tighten the nut and hold the bolt. If you turn the bolt to tighten, it will break the seal between the soft lead washer and the bolt, and the machine will continue leaking. TUB BOOT SEAL If the tub boot is leaking, get a stem & seal kit from your appliance parts dealer. To replace the boot seal and center shaft seal, remove the rubber stop ring at the base of the agitator shaft splines (Figure M-11.) With a screwdriver, pry out the retaining washer lock ring, the retaining washer and the center shaft seal from around the center shaft.
With an allen head wrench, loosen the set screw in the tub mounting stem. (Figure M-11.) Using the same spanner wrench you used to remove the tub, remove the tub mounting stem. CAUTION: The tub mounting stem has a LEFTHAND thread; turn the stem CLOCKWISE to remove it. Remove the old boot seal by turning it as you pull up on the bottom of it. To reassemble, wet the inside of the bottom lip of the seal with a little bit of spit and twist it down onto the tub lip to seat it evenly. DO NOT push on the carbon ring to seat the seal on the tub lip; in fact, try not to touch the carbon ring any more than is absolutely necessary. Tighten the tub mounting stem by hand, (remember; left hand thread, so turn CCW to tighten.) Put the special spanner wrench on it and tap it with a mallet to tighten it.
To install the set screw, tighten it hard to dimple the transmission casing, then back off the set screw and tighten it firmly (but not very hard.) NOTE: There should be 2 to 4 threads showing on the set screw. If NO threads are showing, remove the set screw and tighten the tub mounting stem another 1/8 of a turn, then re-install the set screw. The rest of installation is the opposite of removal.
Don't forget the left-hand thread on the spanner nut; tighten by turning it CCW. 7-13 BRAKE PACKAGE Remove power from the machine and remove the front panel. Pad the floor to prevent scratching the cabinet, and lay the machine on its back.
Block up the tub so the tub remains in line with the cabinet. Beneath the washer, in the center, is the brake package. The brake package changes the machine from the spin to the drain cycle and back when the motor reverses. It also brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle or when the lid is lifted. The brake lining is normally lubricated by a few drops of oil. If the lining gets too dry, it can start squeaking at the very end of the spin cycle, when it is braking the basket. Lubricate by squirting in two or three shots of 40-weight oil (from a regular pump-type oiler) as shown in Figure M-12.
The brake package is not too expensive and can be replaced if defective. Replacement requires a special tool which is somewhat expensive. You can remove and replace the brake package, but DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE PACKAGE YOURSELF. IT IS HEAVILY SPRING LOADED. YOU MAY HURT YOURSELF OPENING IT, AND IT IS IMPRACTICAL FOR YOU TO TRY TO REBUILD IT YOURSELF. BRAKE PACKAGE REMOVAL Remove the center screw from the driveshaft. Remove the drive lug from the splines on the shaft.
Remove the drive pulley by turning counterclockwise (as you look at the bottom of the washer.) Remove the bolt and retainer clip shown in figure M-13. Using the special spanner tool, unscrew the brake package from the washer base by tapping with a mallet. When it is unscrewed from the baseplate, pull the package straight off to disengage it from the splines on the bottom of the transmission casing. BRAKE PACKAGE INSTALLATION When installing the brake package, it is important to have the transmission shaft parallel to the cabinet.
This will help you to thread the brake package into the base plate without cross-threading it. With the tub blocked up, grab the bottom of the transmission casing and move it by hand until you can slip the brake package onto the splines. Turn the transmission casing and the brake package together. If you don't, you will be trying to overcome brake pressure to turn the package. Turn the transmission and brake package until the brake package is hand tight in the baseplate. Then tighten firmly with the special spanner tool and a hammer or mallet. Install the bolt and retaining clip.
Place the pulley bearing on the driveshaft with the cupped side towards the pulley. Install the drive pulley on the helical shaft. While holding the transmission so it doesn't turn, run the drive pulley up as tight as you can by hand onto the helical shaft. You will see a drive lug on the pulley that corresponds to the shaft drive lug. (Figure M-14) With the flat side of the shaft drive lug towards the pulley, install the shaft drive lug on the shaft splines so that the lug is 180 degrees from the pulley drive lug. Hold the transmission and turn the pulley gently counterclockwise to release tension from the brake spring.
Keep turning the pulley until the two drive lugs just touch. Then turn the pulley gently clockwise until you just barely begin to feel the brake spring pressure. The shaft lug should be at about 9 o'clock from the pulley lug. If not, adjust the shaft lug on the splines. The idea is to get the pulley to bottom out on the helical drive shaft just as the drive lugs touch. Sometimes it takes two or three tries to get this adjustment correct. If it is not correct, you will hear the drive motor bogging down and perhaps tripping on the overload during the agitation cycle.
Beneath the damper plate are damper pads, which provide the friction and wear surface. They can wear out, causing metal-to-metal contact and squeaking. TO REPLACE: Reach under the washer and remove the drive belt. Remove the cabinet front and tilt up the cabinet top. Mark the position of the nuts on the three eyebolts (Figure M-15) and remove the bottom nuts. This will remove spring tension on the tub centering springs.
Lean the washer back against the wall at an angle. Place a 4x4 wood block directly underneath the transmission pulley and lower the machine onto the wood block. This will lift the tub, transmission and damper assembly several inches. (Figure M-16).
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